Overview
Light, medium and deep: what separates chemical peels
The first question to settle before a chemical peel is its depth. Every peel works by putting an acid on the skin so that damaged outer layers come away, and the categories describe how far that acid travels. Superficial (light) peels go no further than the epidermis. Medium-depth peels get down to the papillary dermis, while deep peels go as far as the mid-reticular dermis (Soleymani et al., J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2018). That same depth governs your recovery, your risk and, under Texas rules, which professional is allowed to apply it (TDLR). We do not list a Dallas price range for peels. When you call a spa, ask what your specific peel costs and whether the quote is for one appointment or a bundle.
| Light | Medium | Deep | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Time to heal | About 1 to 7 days | 7 to 14 days | 14 to 21 days |
| When makeup is allowed | Immediately or the following day | Camouflaging makeup at 5 to 7 days | No sooner than 14 days |
| Setting | Not specified | Not specified | Surgical setting, general anesthesia |
| How often | Commonly 3 to 5 sessions, 2 to 5 weeks apart | Repeatable | Once in a lifetime |
Each value above is taken from the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD).
Mechanism
How a peel works on skin
Think of a peel as a controlled wound. The acid damages skin down to an intended level, and healing produces fresh layers in its place. Four things set how strong the result is: the acid chosen, its concentration, the application technique and any pretreatment of the skin. Glycolic acid and TCA keep working until an alkaline solution, for example sodium bicarbonate, neutralizes them. Salicylic acid, by contrast, stops on its own (Soleymani et al. 2018).
Depth
The three depths in detail
Superficial
These stay inside the epidermis. Agents the 2018 review lists for this depth are glycolic acid at 30 to 50%, lactic acid at 10 to 30%, mandelic acid at 40% and salicylic acid at 30% (Soleymani et al. 2018). Expect a course rather than a single visit: the AAD describes 3 to 5 light peels, with 2 to 5 weeks between them (AAD).
Medium-depth
These go down to the papillary dermis. Providers typically use 35% TCA or glycolic acid at 50 to 70%, often on top of a first layer of Jessner’s solution, a mix of salicylic acid, resorcinol and lactic acid (Soleymani et al. 2018). According to the AAD, the skin heals in 7 to 14 days (AAD).
Deep
These travel to the mid-reticular dermis, and the standard agent is the Baker-Gordon phenol formula, diluted to 50 to 55% phenol. Once phenol is absorbed, it can disturb the heart’s rhythm (reported in 34 to 50% of patients) and harm the liver and kidneys. For that reason the review calls for cardiac monitoring, and it observes that lasers have mostly taken the place of deep chemical peels (Soleymani et al. 2018). Speed of application mattered in a 1979 study of 43 patients. Treating half or more of the face with phenol in under 30 minutes produced frequent arrhythmias, and spreading the same area over 60 minutes or longer produced none (Truppman & Ellenby 1979). The AAD describes the deep peel as a once-in-a-lifetime treatment done under general anesthesia in a surgical setting, with the skin treated in small sections (AAD).
Indications
Which concerns each depth addresses
- Light (superficial): sun spots (solar lentigines), shallow hyperpigmentation, fine lines and photoaging in the mild to moderate range. A 30% salicylic acid peel is the choice for inflammatory acne that is mild to moderate.
- Medium-depth: actinic keratoses, melasma, sun damage, superficial acne scars and fine lines.
- Deep: photoaging rated moderate to severe, where there are deep wrinkles and marked hyperpigmentation.
What peels generally will not fix: drooping skin, sagging jowls and deep wrinkles (Soleymani et al. 2018).
Skin Safety
Darker skin and peel safety
What one study counted. A team at Boston University went through five years of records from a single center: 473 superficial peels on patients with Fitzpatrick skin types III to VI. Complications followed 18 of those treatments, or 3.8%. At the top of the list were crusting at 2.3%, then post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation at 1.9% and redness at 1.9%. All of them had resolved by 8 months. Patients with skin type VI had higher odds of a side effect, with an odds ratio of 5.14 (Vemula et al., JAAD 2018).
What a melasma review advised. Looking specifically at melasma in dark-skinned patients, another review rated glycolic acid peels highest for safety and effectiveness and recommended caution with TCA. It stated that deep peels are not usable on dark skin and that medium-depth peels require extreme caution (Sarkar et al., J Cutan Aesthet Surg 2012).
What dermatologists recommend. Choose a dermatologist with experience treating darker skin, says the AAD, because without that experience permanent pigment problems can result (AAD).
Getting the skin ready. For melasma patients, consensus recommendations from an Indian expert group call for 2 to 4% hydroquinone over a minimum of 4 weeks before the peel, along with tretinoin started 2 to 4 weeks in advance and discontinued the day before (Sarkar et al., Indian J Dermatol 2017). Whether you need a prep routine is a question for your provider.
Branded Peels
Branded options such as the VI Peel
Only authorized clinicians can offer the VI Peel, a branded product. According to its manufacturer, the provider selects one of six formulas (VI Derm). The lineup covers pigment and melasma, acne, early aging and mature skin, and there is also a body formula meant for skin below the collarbone (VI Derm, Our Peel Formulas). The company’s timeline: flaking starts by day 2, peeling runs from day 3 to day 5, and by day 7 most patients have finished peeling (VI Derm). Ingredients and strength for each formula are not given on those consumer pages. So ask your provider two things: which formula they intend to use, and how deep it goes. In Texas, that depth determines who is permitted to apply it.
What to Expect
A timeline from preparation to healed skin
The deeper the peel, the longer the recovery. Figures here are from the American Academy of Dermatology unless another source is named.
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Weeks and days before
A skin care routine for 2 to 4 weeks ahead is part of the plan for some patients. Anyone with a history of oral herpes starts an antiviral 1 to 2 days ahead of time (Soleymani et al. 2018).
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After a light peel
Redness comes first, then 3 to 7 days of scaling. Healing takes roughly 1 to 7 days, and makeup is normally fine at once or by the next day.
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After a medium peel
Blisters can appear, and swelling reaches its peak near the 48-hour mark. You will do daily soaks, apply ointment, take an antiviral for 10 to 14 days and keep fully out of the sun until healed. The skin needs 7 to 14 days, camouflaging makeup is permitted from day 5 to 7, and you must attend a follow-up visit.
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After a deep peel
Bandages cover the treated skin. Your dermatologist sees you the following day and several more times that first week. The antiviral lasts 10 to 14 days. Full healing takes 14 to 21 days, of which 2 to 3 weeks is recovery at home. Hold off on makeup for at least 14 days, and stay completely out of the sun for 3 to 6 months.
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After healing
Use sunscreen every day, avoid tanning beds and do not pull at peeling skin. Medium and deep peels can leave redness for months, and the skin can become lighter or darker for a time. Because aging continues, the improvement is not permanent.
Sun Protection
Keeping skin out of the sun
Every peel depth comes with sun rules. After any peel you need sunscreen daily. A medium peel adds total sun avoidance until the skin heals, and a deep peel extends that to 3 to 6 months (AAD). In the Boston study of superficial peels on skin types III to VI, peels done in winter had fewer side effects (Vemula et al., JAAD 2018). If you have outdoor plans coming up, time the peel so the healing period does not overlap them.
Pricing
What peels cost around Dallas
We have no Dallas price range to publish, since the type and strength of the peel drive the price. Ask for a quote on the exact peel and confirm whether it pays for a single session or a series.
Combinations
Pairing a peel with other treatments
No professional guideline we located sets a standard waiting period between a peel and microneedling, Botox or dermal fillers. VI Derm markets its peel as an add-on to a neurotoxin visit (VI Derm) and to a course of microneedling. How long to wait depends on the depth of the peel, what the other procedure is and how quickly your skin recovers. If you are booking several treatments, your provider should decide the sequence and spacing.
Laser treatments: according to a 2018 review, lasers have largely replaced deep chemical peels (Soleymani et al. 2018).
Isotretinoin: a 2017 expert consensus review found the evidence too thin to justify delaying superficial chemical peels in patients who take isotretinoin or stopped it recently (Spring et al., JAMA Dermatol 2017). Its summary does not address medium or deep peels. Tell your provider about any isotretinoin use.
Texas Law
Picking a Dallas provider: what Texas requires
Esthetician limits. Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation guidance allows estheticians to perform light or superficial peels, the kind that remove dead cells from the epidermis without going into the dermis. Because medium and deep peels do reach the dermis, the Texas Medical Board oversees them as medical procedures (TDLR).
| Depth | Esthetician with a TDLR license may perform | Treated as a medical procedure under Texas Medical Board rules |
|---|---|---|
| Superficial | Yes | Not listed |
| Medium | No | Yes |
| Deep | No | Yes |
Delegation rules. The Texas Medical Board’s Subchapter E of 22 TAC Chapter 169 has been in effect since January 9, 2025 (Texas Medical Board). Under it:
- Before treatment, you must have a practitioner-patient relationship with a physician or with a PA or APRN to whom the physician has delegated (22 TAC §169.26).
- A written order is required for delegation (22 TAC §169.27), and the person carrying out the procedure also signs and dates a written protocol (22 TAC §169.26).
- Each public area and each treatment room has to display the delegating physician’s name and Texas license number (22 TAC §169.28).
Before you agree to a medium or deep peel, ask:
- Who applies the peel, and which license do they hold?
- Which physician is delegating? You can verify that physician on the Texas Medical Board’s Look Up a License page.
- What depth will this peel reach, and what is the plan if something goes wrong?
- For darker skin: how many peels has this provider performed on skin like yours?
Treatment Areas